For many, suede is a material reserved for autumn. It sits comfortably alongside heavier tweeds, knitwear and darker colours, only emerging once the weather begins to cool.
Yet few materials are better suited to summer.
Whether paired with tailored linen, lightweight cotton or relaxed denim, it's soft, breathable and offers an effortless elegance that polished calf leather often cannot.
In this edition of The Abbot's Edit, we explore why suede deserves a permanent place in your summer wardrobe, how to wear it well, and how a little care will keep it looking exceptional for years to come.
One of the biggest misconceptions surrounding suede is that it is delicate. While it certainly benefits from proper care, quality suede is far more resilient than many people believe.
Its soft, brushed finish creates texture without shine, making it naturally more relaxed than polished leather. That subtle texture complements the lighter fabrics and softer colour palettes that define summer dressing.
Many suede shoes are also produced with unlined or lightly lined uppers, allowing greater breathability and flexibility during warmer weather. The result is a shoe that feels comfortable from the first wear while maintaining the craftsmanship expected of premium footwear.
While "suede" is often used as a catch-all term, there are several different finishes, each with its own character and appearance.
Traditional suede is created from the underside of the hide, producing the soft, brushed finish most people recognise. Calf suede, favoured by many of Northampton's finest shoemakers, is particularly supple, with a fine, even nap that lends itself beautifully to elegant loafers and dress shoes.
Among enthusiasts, you'll often come across names such as Castorino, Repello and Janus. These are not different types of leather, but premium suede finishes produced by specialist tanneries, each offering its own distinctive look and performance.
Janus Calf, developed by the renowned British tannery Charles F. Stead, is perhaps the best known. Characterised by its fine, even nap and rich depth of colour, it has become a favourite among leading shoemakers including Edward Green, Crockett & Jones and Gaziano & Girling. Its luxurious appearance makes it equally at home on refined loafers, elegant Oxfords and versatile Derby shoes.
Repello Suede, also produced by Charles F. Stead, undergoes an additional treatment during the tanning process that gives it enhanced resistance to water and staining. While no suede is entirely weatherproof, Repello is well suited to everyday wear, retaining its soft texture while offering greater protection against the unexpected summer shower.
Castorino Suede is prized for its exceptionally soft handle and refined, velvety finish. With a slightly longer, fuller nap than Janus, it has a more relaxed appearance that develops beautiful character over time. It is a finish frequently chosen for casual loafers and lightweight boots, where its tactile quality and subtle texture can truly be appreciated.
Whether you choose the understated elegance of Janus, the practicality of Repello or the luxurious softness of Castorino, each demonstrates why premium suede remains one of the finest materials in shoemaking. Beautifully crafted and remarkably versatile, quality suede only becomes more appealing with age.
Routine care is refreshingly straightforward. A gentle brush with a crepe or suede brush will lift the nap, remove surface dust and restore the suede's soft, velvety appearance. Brushing in different directions can also help revive areas that have become flattened through wear.
For small scuffs, shiny patches or isolated marks, a suede eraser is an invaluable addition to your shoe care kit. Used with a light touch, it can lift surface stains and refresh flattened areas of the nap without damaging the leather. Once the mark has been removed, a quick brush is usually all that's needed to restore the suede's natural texture.
For more stubborn marks, use a suede shampoo or dedicated suede cleaner. Applied sparingly with a soft brush or sponge, suede shampoo removes embedded dirt while preserving the leather's natural texture. Always allow the shoes to dry naturally before brushing the nap back into place.
Consider applying a quality water-repellent spray designed specifically for suede and nubuck. While no treatment makes suede completely waterproof, it provides valuable protection against light showers, splashes and everyday marks without affecting the texture of the leather. Reapplying every few months, particularly during periods of regular wear, will help maintain that protection.
Should your shoes be caught in an unexpected shower, resist the temptation to dry them beside a radiator or other direct heat source. Instead, insert cedar shoe trees, allow them to dry at room temperature and brush the suede once completely dry.
Like any quality footwear, suede benefits from rest between wears. Rotating your shoes allows moisture to evaporate naturally, helping preserve both the leather and the shape of the shoe.
Summer is the season where suede truly comes into its own.
Rather than reaching for black leather, consider softer, earthier tones that work effortlessly with warm-weather dressing.
Unlike polished leather, suede absorbs light rather than reflecting it, giving even darker colours a softer, more relaxed appearance.
The beauty of suede lies in its versatility.
Loafers
Perhaps the definitive summer shoe. A suede penny or tassel loafer bridges the gap between formal and casual with ease, looking equally at home with tailored trousers, lightweight suits or cuffed chinos.
Derby Shoes
For occasions that call for a little more structure, a suede Derby offers all the versatility of its leather counterpart but with a noticeably softer character.
Chukka Boots
Often overlooked during warmer months, an unlined suede chukka can be surprisingly comfortable on cooler summer evenings and remains one of the easiest boots to dress both up and down.
At Abbot's Shoes, some of our most sought-after arrivals each summer are suede loafers, Derby shoes and casual boots from makers such as Crockett & Jones, Church's, Edward Green, John Lobb, and Gaziano & Girling.
Exceptional shoemaking is never confined to one season, and suede is no exception.
One of the pleasures of buying quality pre-owned suede is that much of its character is already beginning to emerge. The nap has often softened, the colour has developed subtle variation, and the leather has settled naturally without losing its integrity. This makes lightly worn examples every bit as desirable as new.
If you've always thought suede belonged in autumn, this summer might be the perfect time to think again. Whether you're looking for an elegant penny loafer, a versatile Derby or a relaxed chukka boot, explore Abbot's collection of pre-owned suede footwear and discover exceptional shoes that are ready to be worn.
