In this edition of The Abbot’s Edit, we’ll explore what makes shoe leathers so special: the different types of leathers, the grains and varieties, and the famous tanneries that supply the world’s finest footwear.
Why the Leather Matters
Choosing a pair of quality shoes is not simply a purchase; it’s an investment in durability, comfort, and character. And that character is shaped almost entirely by the hide chosen by the shoemaker. The quality, tannage, and finish of the leather dictate its longevity, the depth of patina it develops, and how gracefully it responds to years of wear. Understanding the journey from raw hide to refined patina is essential for any true shoe connoisseur. Read on as we peel back the layers of the world of premium shoe leathers.
There is a rich vocabulary in leather, and knowing your full-grain from your pull-up, your suede from your cordovan, can give you a real insider’s understanding. Here are some of the most common and revered types of leather used in high-quality shoes.
Full-Grain Leather
Often regarded as the pinnacle of leather quality, full-grain leather comes from the top layer of the hide and retains its natural surface. It shows the inherent markings and characteristics of the hide, which means each piece is unique. Over time, full-grain leather develops a beautiful patina, becoming more characterful with age.
Top-Grain Leather
A close cousin to full-grain, top-grain leather is also cut from the top layer of the hide. However, it’s often sanded or buffed to remove imperfections, resulting in a more uniform, smooth surface.
Corrected-Grain Leather
This leather has been altered to give a consistent, even grain. After surface sanding, it’s commonly embossed with an artificial grain texture. The result is a reliable, uniform look, though it sacrifices some of the natural variation of full-grain.
Suede
Made from the underside of the hide (split leather), suede offers a delicate, napped finish. It’s soft and flexible but tends to be less durable and requires more careful maintenance than smoother leathers.
Nubuck
Top-grain leather that has been lightly buffed or sanded on the grain side to give a velvety, soft nap. Think of nubuck as a more robust sibling to suede, it has strength but retains that plush feel.
Oily / Waxed Leather (Pull-Up Leather)
This rugged leather is treated with oils and waxes, giving it a supple, weather-resistant surface. As the leather stretches and flexes, the colour “pulls up” lighter in places, a highly prized aesthetic in heritage-style shoes and boots.
Shell Cordovan
Made from the shell (a dense membrane) of a horse hide, shell cordovan is exceptionally smooth, tough, and long-lasting. It creases minimally and develops a deep, lustrous shine over time. You can read more about cordovan in our previous installment of the The Abbot's Edit: Shell Cordovan
Exotic Leathers
Exotic leathers add rare texture and luxury to footwear, with specialized tanning used to preserve natural scale patterns. Alligator, crocodile, python, and lizard each offer distinct finishes that elevate premium shoe design.
Some of the world’s most renowned tanneries supply leather to high-end and heritage shoemakers alike. These tanneries are the start of the story in every pair of fine leather shoes.
There are countless others - small, specialist tanneries in Italy, Spain, the UK, and beyond - each bringing distinctive qualities and heritage to their leather.
When you're browsing our extensive collection of fine leather shoes at Abbot’s, here are a few leather tips to guide your decision:
1. Purpose matters:
2. Maintenance:
3. Patina potential:
Choosing footwear made from quality leather—whether full-grain calf, waxed pull-up, or Shell Cordovan—means selecting materials built to age well and perform over time.
At Abbot's Shoes, we focus on preserving that standard: well-made shoes, responsibly sourced materials, and traditional tanning methods that support long-term wear and repair.
Explore our range here, from patina-rich Oxfords to durable Chelsea boots and long-lasting Cordovan styles.
In this edition of The Abbot’s Edit, we’ll explore what makes shoe leathers so special: the different types of leathers, the grains and varieties, and the famous tanneries that supply the world’s finest footwear.
Welcome back to The Abbot’s Edit, in this edition we turn our attention to what lies beneath. From traditional leather to modern sustainable rubber compounds, the sole defines comfort, durability, and style. Choosing the correct type for the intended purpose is key to making an investment-worthy purchase, read on as we tread carefully through the pros and cons of each.
We delve into the boot that has travelled from the Royal court to the recording studio, exploring the history, anatomy, and styling of an undisputed classic - the Chelsea boot.
